Отель «Erdoba Konaklari»

The Erdoba are indeed”konaklari,” or mansions, restored to their full glory by two young businessmen last spring. The upper complex is on Mardin’s main street, the lower is 100 meters a way, a 5-minute walk into the bazaar. The upper complex has 15 new rooms connected to the lobby, a 120-seat inside restaurant, meeting rooms and a terrace restaurant with a view across the Mesopotamian plains into Syria. But, book the lower complex if you can. There, you will find 16 palatial rooms, some bigger than apartments I’ve lived in, on two levels. When wealthy merchants- first Jews, then Armenians- owned the mansions, their families lived upstairs, said co-owner Mufit Gozu. On the bottom floor, servants would greet and refresh guests. Those who arrived late would sneak in a back door, and the hosts would keep everyone waiting in separate areas, then join the two groups so that no one would know who was late- exceedingly bad manners in Ottoman times, Gozu said. The rooms are just as they were in the 1870s. All have vaulted ceilings rising perhaps 30 feet above the shining wood and marble floors. Much of the stonework is elaborately carved, especially the niches where there were once recessed fountains. The only drawback to living like a pasha is that true to its 19thcentury origins, the Erdoba’s lower complex doesn’t have in-room bathrooms. ”We could make more money by altering the rooms. But we wanted to restore it to its original glory,” Gozu said. ”Just the way we opened it now takes you back 100 years.” It’s worth having to walk a few steps to extremely well appointed showers and restrooms there also is no air conditioning in the lower complex, but you don’t need it when you have stonewalls two meters thick. The upper rooms - in modern buildings on either side of a lighted walkway- also are nicely furnished, air conditioned with private baths. But they’re a bit claustrophobic after you stayed in one of the suites. Either way, your stay will not cost you more than the equivalent of $50 per night! Breakfast is included- the typical Turkish fare of cheese, olives, bread and tea, though you can get eggs and coffee, if you wish. The main kitchen doesn’t offer meals unless a group is in. So you may have to dine out. But be sure to take tea out on the balcony. The Erdoba doesn’t sell alcohol because the buildings are leased from the municipality.